Austin, A Growing City in the Growing State of Texas
I was eager to travel to Austin, Texas in May 2023. There is a lot being said about Austin, Texas and almost all of it good. But this short trip would be the perfect opportunity to see for myself what this up and coming city is all about. I knew I wouldn’t be able to get an in-depth sense of what makes Austin tick, but I figured I would be able to take away some first-hand impressions of the city that would augment my research.
The ubiquitous Austin sign across the street from our Airbnnb, photo Denise Ames
I particularly wanted to see what is was like to be living in Austin amidst its phenomenal growth. How does it affect the average resident? I also wanted to see if Austin is authentic. Now, that is a nebulous undertaking to be sure but I have found that many cities don’t have a real character but when rapid growth takes place they take on the trappings of a commercial façade that makes them look authentic but at the core they aren’t. These two broad questions would guide my visit and observations about the city.
During my visit to Austin I would be combining by observations and reflections of the city with some downhome fun. My reason for the visit was to attend our annual “Girl’s Weekend” outing with assorted female relatives. This was our 15th year of get togethers. We only missed one year, and as you can imagine it was the Covid year of 2020.
We are an odd assemblage of women, including my daughter, daughter-in-law, niece, sister-in-law, and others who would like to join. Sometimes my son joins us, as an honorary “girl.” Also, my cousin on the opposite side of my family joins us, just because she likes everyone. And lately, my niece’s 20-something stepdaughter is becoming a delightful regular member. Our group definitely is a cross-generational affair, as I enjoy. But we all got along, and laughter patches over any generational differences.
Along with impressions and reflections, this article highlights some of the places I visited in Austin with and without my group of female relatives. It is not a recounting of everything our group did during my visit, but I will interject some of our excursions just for the fun of it. Also, some of our jaunts add humor and depth to a fun and interesting stay.
Austin a Fast-Growing City
Some reports say that Austin is the fastest growing city in the United States. The current population of the metro area in 2023 is 2,228,000, a 2.39% increase from 2022. Another report in October 2022, cited Austin as the second fastest-growing city in Texas, with San Antonio topping the list and Fort Worth coming in third. Florida cities were the fastest-growing in the US but different sources cited different number one cities. One source had Georgetown, Texas, a suburb outside of Austin, as the fastest-growing city in the country. Suffice it to say: Austin is booming.
Skyline of Austin, Texas, photo Denise Ames
Interestingly, I found that Austin is the fastest-growing city for millionaires, according to the 2023 Wealth Report by Henley & Partners. Between 2012 and 2022, the number of millionaires calling Austin home more than doubled to 30,500. A “millionaire growth rate” of 102% puts Austin at the top of the list.
I decided to leave a day earlier than when our group would meet to take in a few sights and sounds of Austin before my attention drifted to group dynamics. That way I could get some more reflective impressions of the city for this article.
As I prepared for my trip, I wondered what the appeal of Austin was? I knew it was the capital of the huge state of Texas, and also the home to the University of Texas, the Longhorns. Like Florida, Texas does not have a state income tax, which is a definite appeal. But there are other intangible things that I am looking out for as I embarked on my four-day visit.
I would be staying at a popular section of the city called Bouldin Creek. I guess it is popular since there are dozens of BBQ restaurants close by. But it looks as though Austin is not all cowboy boots and BBQ, as there are many international and hip restaurants and galleries that dot the city.
The Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center
I took the early flight from Albuquerque directly to Austin so I could have the whole day to explore. My first stop was at the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center. I am a nature enthusiast, and wherever I go my first choice of excursions is to a botanical garden, wildlife refuge, or park. I love to hike and “be” in nature, even in big cities. This wildflower center looked intriguing. Also, I am an admirer of Lady Bird Johnson and her efforts to bring attention to the beauty of nature.
The Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center, Austin, Texas, photo Denise Ames
Lyndon Johnson became president of the United States in 1963 after the tragic assassination of John F. Kennedy in Dallas, Texas. Johnson and his wife “Lady Bird” hailed from the rolling hill country west of Austin. I visited their lovely home overlooking the hills of Texas during a visit in 2000. Lady Bird was a nature enthusiast, and was especially drawn to wildflowers. She had a “beautify America” campaign as first lady that was quite popular. She was and continues to be revered in the Austin area and I was eager to see the park that stands as a tribute to her.
After landing, I made my way to the Uber section of the airport on a “people mover” I was immediately struck by the friendliness of the young men that helped me with my luggage. “Could this be authentic,” I asked myself? But it seemed genuine as they asked me about my flight and what I would be doing in Austin. It is amazing what a bit of kindness can do for the soul. I felt light-hearted and had a smile on my lips as I made my way to the Uber line.
I decided to go straight from the airport to the Lady Bird Wildlife Center, suitcase in tow. I felt confident that I would be able to find a place to stash it, rather than lugging it around the grounds. It was a longer drive than I expected since the Wildlife Center was situated on the outskirts of Austin.
Lady Bird Johnson Wildlife Center, Austin, Texas, photo Denise Ames
The people at the entrance were Austin-style friendly and directed me to the administrative offices where I could stash my suitcase. The flagstone walkways and stone buildings were pleasingly designed and fit in with the lush landscape. I was excited to explore the grounds.
After dumping my suitcase, I took off on one of the trails around the 284-acre complex. I was pleased to encounter a wide variety of people, not just senior women. Many young mothers were there with their children, who frolicked about on various equipment designed to engage youngsters. I snapped away on my camera, as I saw interesting flowers, birds, and natural beauty at every turn.
After a long walk I decided to try my luck for lunch at the appropriately named Wildflower Café. I selected the garden salad, and by the time I added an ice tea and chicken it came to over $25, yikes, things have gotten expensive I thought. But the salad was one of the best I have had in a long time! The glazed pecans, grilled chicken, and fresh blueberries added up to a delicious mix.
After a leisurely lunch, I decided to explore more trails. A climb up a tower afforded me a sweeping view of the grounds and the east Texas prairie. I enjoyed walking through areas where flower experimentation was taking place. It was interesting to see the workers explore drought-tolerant flower varieties as well as those suited to excess moisture.
Dark clouds signaled rain was coming my way and I decided to wrap up my visit to the Wildflower Center. I thanked Lady Bird for inspiring such a beautiful area for wildflowers. A great legacy to a fascinating woman.
It took about 15 minutes to get an Uber to make its way to the out-of-the-way location, but not as long as I expected. A chatty driver regaled me with stories on the 20-minute ride to my Best Western hotel. I was a couple of hours too early for check-in, but the Austin hospitality kicked in again and the desk clerk immediately found a room available. I was happy to unpack and rest a bit before my next excursion.
A Walk along South Congress Street: Boots, and a Flavor of Old Austin
After a brief rest at the Best Western hotel in Austin, where I was staying for the night, I decided to walk towards South Congress St., a popular street in Austin and not far from the hotel. Actually, the day was hot and humid and my destination was farther than I thought. I was sweating bullets by the time I made it to the trendy thoroughfare.
A renovated bungalow in tony neighborhood close to downtown Austin, photo Denise Ames
Walking always avails me of a close-up view of an area. As I walked I noticed that the area was in transition from a somewhat rough ethnic neighborhood to shaded gentrified areas marked by renovated homes and upscale cars.
The tension between these two different lifestyles erupted in a heated confrontation between several young Hispanic students walking home after school and a middle-aged woman in a Lexus. I don’t know what sparked the confrontation or who was at fault, but I saw the woman yell out her window at the students as she dangerously sped through the congregated group. Names were shouted at each other and fists raised, but luckily no one was hurt and the inflamed feelings slowly cooled.
Eventually the gentrification transition was complete, and South Congress Street unfolded in all of its consumer glory. Actually, I was impressed with South Congress Street. Most of the old buildings still stood and had been converted into restaurants, shops, and services. Chain stores were excluded, so it gave a feeling of strolling through Austin in the post-war years, although at 2023 prices.
One of the shops that caught my eye was Allen Boots, the big red cowboy boot above the entrance to the store was hard to miss. I have a special affinity for cowboy boots since I was an active horseback rider in my youth, showing our family’s Arabian horses in many events. In fact, I was offered a full-time job training horses when I was 19 years old! I wisely declined; instead, turning my attention to completing my college degree. I have worn many different cowboy boots in my years, a favorite pair were black boots that skimmed the knee with a square heel and somewhat rounded toe. Stunning!
Although I was not in the market for boots, my odd shaped feet reject only the most comfortable and flexible shoes, I still wanted to feast my eyes on the wide assortment of artistic boot creations. Started in 1977, the store knew how to market its tradition. I entered the story to take a long whiff of leather. I was immediately whisked away to my horse-riding days when I patiently oiled the leather saddles, bridles, and boots to a shiny gloss. Ahh, such memories.
Boots at Allen’s Boot Store on South Congress, Austin Texas, photo Denise Ames
I watched the promotional video advertising the cowboy wares, which included hats, gloves, and other paraphernalia along with boots. It showed attractive women in short skirts with cowboy boots adoring their well-toned legs. They were engaging in all the supposed cowboy activities, such as playing poker and drinking beer. As I would find out and saw a lot of, it was now the trend to wear anything Western. I liked the trend, at least it was connected to something in my past and not a completely new and modern invention.
After I emerged from the fog of memory lane, a vintage ice cream store caught my eye. I couldn’t resist, I sat down for an ice-cream cone in a shady spot and watched the people pass by. After relaxing a bit, I realized I had a very long day and was exhausted. I ordered an Uber and motored back to the hotel. I had a relaxing shower and nibbled on some of my snacks I brought from home for dinner. I fell into bed, after all tomorrow I would meet up with the others for another long but exciting day in Austin.
A Downtown Trek: Exploring Austin
I woke up early and felt surprisingly energized. I made my way to the hotel breakfast buffet for a sumptuous breakfast. They actually had real eggs. My first stop would be to drop off my bag at the Airbnb around 11, where my host graciously allowed me to leave my bag several hours before check-in. Austin hospitality continued in waves. I decided to walk toward the Capitol building over the Colorado River and through downtown. I planned to be back around 2:00 when the others would begin to arrive.
State capitol building, Austin, Texas, photo Denise Ames
It was another hot day as I took off along First Street heading for downtown. I took a few side trips to explore pleasant neighborhoods. The gentrification process was largely complete in the area I walked through. Houses built in the early 20th century had been converted into opulent dwellings, many with an architectural flare setting them apart from their neighbors. They managed to squeeze two story houses onto tree-shaded lots designed for one story bungalows. The beautiful Live Oak trees spread their long and majestic branches to embrace their new house neighbors.
Luckily, a pedestrian bridge across the Colorado River shielded me from heavy traffic. I was able to lift my contemplation of the sidewalk to gaze out across the expanse of the river. You may be surprised to find out that there are actually two Colorado Rivers. Apparently, they were independently named but the respective names stuck. The more famous Colorado River originates in the state of Colorado and slashes its way through the Grand Canyon. The Colorado River ambling through Austin originates in western Texas and runs 862 miles, all in the state of Texas, then empties into the Gulf of Mexico.
The riverside was made into a park or several parks, and bike and running trails wove along the river’s edge on both sides. It was a picturesque and relaxing setting.
From the pedestrian bridge on First Street crossing the Colorado River, Austin, Texas, photo Denise Ames
After crossing the river, I entered downtown Austin. Although new buildings had been erected and new construction seemed to be everywhere, some old structures still dotted the landscape giving Austin an authentic feel.
On my way to the capitol I passed by the Willie Nelson statue on Second Street. Willie was born not far from Austin and now lives on a sprawling ranch outside of the city. I read where he shelters around 70 horses who have been abused or on the verge of slaughter. My regard for Willie Nelson increased upon reading this random factoid. His popularity in Austin soared as he played his own brand of country music marked by country, folk and jazz influences. I love Willie Nelson’s music but never heard him play in person. His statue is a testament to his tremendous popularity in Austin.
Willie Nelson statue in downtown Austin, photo Denise Ames
I made my way straight to the capitol building. I got a glimpse of it as I turned the corner onto Congress St. Wow! It certainly made a statement. It was a pretentious structure on a hill. An apt building for such a large and prosperous state.
The capitol was abuzz with activity. Lawmakers and staffers were in and out, tourists milled about on the tree-shaded grounds, and a Muslim-American group was serving food and handing out literature.
Since Texas is the second largest state in population and size in the U.S., one would think that the lawmakers would be serving full time. But interestingly, the Texas Legislature meets in Regular Session for only about five months every other year! Either they must be very efficient in their jobs, or they don’t make many laws. Take your pick. I didn’t go in the capitol building since I would be taking a tour with the group the next day that included a tour of the building.
I realized that I was hungry and needed a rest after my vigorous walk. I spotted a pleasant looking restaurant that had patio seating. I ordered an ice tea and gulped it down. How I love ice tea. I took my time eating a cool and refreshing Caesar salad. I realized that it was getting late and my daughter-in-law, Kim, would be arriving soon; I decided to Uber my way back to the Airbnb.
BBQ: Austin, Texas Style
I arrived at the Airbnb at the same time as my daughter-in-law. We explored the rambling house and staked our claims to beds. The house was a former two-bedroom bungalow, which that was a popular layout when it was built in the 1930s. Since then, the gentrification fever took over Austin and now the house has additions stretching to the back-lot line, and even the side yard had been enclosed.
It made for a comfortable house for six vacationers, but I always marvel at why Americans insist on such sumptuous houses. I am not passing judgment though, since I am the queen of oversized houses. Even now my partner and I have a 2,000-foot house that we rattle around in.
After a thorough survey of the premises, Kim and I thought it imperative that we buy some wine that would be somewhat chilled when the others arrived. We walked in the hot afternoon heat to the convenient store where they had a good wine selection and lots of snacks. We lugged our cache back to the Airbnb just in time to greet the three Chicagoans—my sister-in-law, niece, and my niece’s step-daughter. Since my sister-in-law and I are the oldest, we snagged the single bedrooms and our own bathroom.
My daughter, Mia, arrived from New York a few hours later. By that time, we were starved and ready for some BBQ-Texas style. We decided on Black’s BBQ, which was relatively close and had rave reviews.
Black’s BBQ with slabs of meat in the foreground, Austin, Texas, photo Denise Ames
The Original Black’s BBQ opened its doors in 1932 in Lockhart, Texas as a meat market. It wasn’t until the 2nd generation Pitmaster Edgar Black Jr. came along that it turned into a full-fledged restaurant. Over the years Black’s BBQ has expanded across Central Texas with four locations. Remarks about their restaurant read: “When you come to our restaurant, you’re reminded of the good ole days. People talking to other people, phones are put away, and the smell of brisket fills the air. You truly get a sense of family and belonging.” I wondered if this hype was true as we made our way to the restaurant.
We got to the restaurant around 7:00 on a Friday night. The height of its rush hour. Everything was packed, although we noticed an outdoor table that was available. We snatched it and the rest of us made our way to the winding line to order our precious BBQ. It was a bit confusing but we came out with over $300 worth of brisket, ribs, and assorted sides. Who says BBQ is poor man’s food. It was pricey!
Although my diet preference leans to mostly vegetarian, I did consume a slab of beef brisket. If I am in Texas, I have to try BBQ. It was actually delicious, and very tender. I thought we over-ordered the meat, but we scarfed it all down except for a few ribs. We did order a few too many banana puddings, but otherwise not bad for a confusing and rushed ordering process.
While the others were chattering away, I made my way to the enclosed BBQ shed where hot drums cooked the meat to perfection. I chatted briefly through the wire mesh enclosure with the man tending the meat and asked how he endured the suffocating heat. He said he was used to it by now, and didn’t mind it. It sure seemed unbearable to me.
Smokehouse at Black’s BBA, Austin, Texas, photo Denise Ames
As I waited for the others, I surveyed the crowd to see if the hype about the restaurant was true. Did people really have a sense of belonging when they visited the restaurant? Although it was hard to tell, people did seem very relaxed and laughter and gay conversation floated through the air. I think the unpretentious atmosphere added to the relaxed ambience, and the fact that everyone was eating basically the same thing.
By the time I returned to the table, the “youngsters” has decided to go to a honky-tonk salon to enjoy some Austin music. I readily agreed. We piled into an extended SUV Uber and headed to 6th Street in downtown Austin. Excitement awaited!
An Evening at San Jac’s: Austin’s Sixth Street at Night
In my research about the city, I came across the fact that Sixth Street is the place to go to experience local characters and the vibrancy of the city. Sixth Street is distinctly Austin. We walked along the street with its colorful and bustling array of bars, restaurants, and entertainment venues. Old 6th Street is sometimes fondly known as Dirty 6th, and is the original entertainment section of the street including those venues between Congress Avenue (to the west) and I-35 (to the East). I’ll leave it to your imagination to figure out what dirty means!
We set our sights on San Jac’s. We arrived to good ole country music with a distinctive Austin twang. Two cute young women were strumming their guitars and belting out tunes, wearing short skirts and cowboy boots. We liked the place and settled into a table with assorted stools on the mezzanine level, which afforded us a view of the band and barroom goings-on. Since I am a compulsive people-watcher, it was perfect for me. Continuing with the Austin-friendly theme, we struck up a conversation with three-middle aged women who were tourists as well. They even bought us a round of drinks.
San Jacs on Sixth St. Austin, Texas, photo Denise Ames
I especially liked one woman who thought I had nice skin. It was dark in the bar so I thought she probably missed some of the lines and sags, but my ego loved the compliment. She wanted to know my full skin-care regime, which is actually pretty basic. I told her collagen production was the key and my supplements, foods, moisturizers, and exercise all help collagen production. Still, time is not on my side, and gravity takes over. Sounds like a country song actually.
After the “girl-band” finished, the featured band set up and started to wail. I liked their music and soon the dance floor was crowded with skilled country-western dancers who slid around the waxed floor on their slick cowboy boots. My daughter even got the dance bug and soon she had me out on the dance floor with her, I certainly didn’t fall into the skilled set but it was fun to bounce around and no one seemed to care.
Wisely, I stuck to seltzer water to drink but my daughter kept pouring some of her White Claw into my seltzer water. It was refreshing but still I could stand. It was a fun evening and we stayed for several hours enjoying the music and chatting with nearby people.
Band a San Jac Bar, Austin, Texas, photo Denise Ames
Finally, we said good-bye to the band and walked out on Sixth Street, which had come alive while we were in the bar. Since Sixth Street was strictly for pedestrians on weekend nights, we didn’t have to worry about traffic. It was fun to see a parade of characters sashaying by. Pink outfits and cowboy boots were definitely the preferred fashion statement for women and the transgender crowd. Feathers were a plus.
We had to walk a bit to catch an Uber on the outskirts of Sixth Street. We finally made our way back to our Airbnb. After a cool, refreshing shower, I tumbled into bed, ready for another adventurous day.
Congress Street in all its Glory
The next day dawned bright and sunny in Austin. The cute little bakery across the street was abuzz with traffic, particularly from the swarms of tourists sauntering over from the Greetings from Austin sign proudly displayed on the corner of our Airbnb street. What could be more picturesque.
After a leisurely breakfast, we decided to stroll around the Congress Street shops and restaurants. We hailed an Uber, although we later realized it was within walking distance. A big, burly Texan driver greeted us in his big, black, immaculate Suburban. He regaled us with a few bawdy stories and a couple of taco restaurant recommendations as he dropped us off. He told us that one restaurant had a Republican and Democrat taco choices. He described the Republican taco with gusto: sausage, cheese, chili peppers, and topped with a special hot sauce. He started to describe the ingredients in the Democrat taco, which was clearly not his favorite, but stopped and said he couldn’t remember them. My daughter chimed in and said probably just lettuce. He let out a howl, and said that was the funniest thing he heard in a long time. We all laughed at my daughter’s quick-witted humor.
Cowboy hats at Allen Boots, South Congress Street, Austin, Texas, photo Denise Ames
The street was alive with shoppers and tourists on a busy Saturday afternoon. I was happy to introduce the group to the Allen’s Boot store. It was fun to go in again and people watch this time. Two very stylish young women shoppers were exiting as we were entering. They were laden down with huge boxes in colorful designs. I asked if they bought boots, “Not this time,” they claimed, “hats”! I am sure they would be able to dazzle any crowd in their stunning new cowboy hats.
My petite niece was in the market for boots. She tried on several in size 5, the smallest size they carried. She couldn’t find the perfect pair, but I was too busy looking around to notice. If you were in the market for boots, or people watching, this was the place to be.
We darted in and out of a few shops and then decided it was time for lunch. A Mexican restaurant caught our eye. Tacos sounded sumptuous for lunch. I loved the atmosphere of the restaurant, and the ceiling fans added to the relaxed ambiance. We laughed and chatted our way through a leisurely lunch. After lunch we meandered back out onto the hot Congress Street sidewalk, where the shops and bustle weren’t as appealing as in the cooler morning.
The Bullock Museum and an Insightful Uber Driver
My daughter had worked on a museum exhibit for the Bullock Texas State Historical Museum several years ago as an exhibit graphic designer. She quit the project when her daughter was born but had never seen the completed exhibit. She suggested going there and I was excited to see the exhibit as well. In fact, we all decided to go.
Bullock Museum on the University of Texas campus, Austin, Texas, photo Denise Ames
The story of the ship, the focus of the museum exhibit, begins in 1684 when French King Louis XIV sent explorer René-Robert Cavelier, Sieur de la Salle, to North America with four ships and 400 people. The explorer was to land at the mouth of the Mississippi River, establish a colony and trade routes, and locate Spanish silver mines. That plan was never realized. Instead, La Salle lost ships to pirates, sailed past his destination, and was murdered by his own men. In 1686, La Belle, wrecked in a storm, was the one remaining expedition ship and ingloriously sank to the muddy bottom of Matagorda Bay. In 1995, archaeologists located the 17th century ship and began a decades-long recovery of the ship's hull, along with more than 1.6 million artifacts.
It was fun to browse through the exhibit and get first-hand commentary from one of the designers, my daughter. We took in the rest of the museum as well until closing time forced us out.
We caught an Uber back to our Airbnb with an unusually reflective driver. I like to engage with drivers who have something insightful to say. His scruffy car interior and exterior gave me a hint that this driver was one of them. I asked him what he thought about the growth of Austin. He explained, with some resignation in his voice, that indeed Austin was growing by leaps and bounds with no end in sight. He added that Austin always had a uniqueness about it, that made it part of Texas but with its own particular edge. However, he did not feel that that uniqueness was deep enough to withstand the sweeping changes confronting the city. He noted that cities like New York and Chicago were established long enough to retain their own character despite wrenching changes over time but he didn’t think that Austin would be able to do so. Instead, he felt that Austin would become a “globalized” city and succumb to the homogenization that wealth and fast growth would inflict upon the city. Although cowboy boots and hats may prevail, they would be a superficial veneer covering a city without a soul.
University of Austin campus, Austin, Texas, photo Denise Ames
Wow! I had to ponder that one. He nailed the repercussion of the fast-paced growth that was engulfing Austin in a few pithy sentences. He clearly articulated the sentiments that I was intuiting as I toured the city. Would Austin be able to retain its uniqueness and vitality or succumb to the numbing conformity and homogenization that usually wealth brings to cities, states, and communities? I guess, I will have to go back at some point and find out!
Dinner and Jazz: An Evening in Austin
The Austin magic continued with us to dinner. We dined at a toney downtown restaurant. We picked it because we got a sampling of wines in 5 assorted glasses. It was fun to sample all the wines but the number of glasses on the table added up and it seemed rather cluttered.
A sampling of wine, we each had six different glasses, photo Austin, Texas
We decided to try a different type of music for our evening’s entertainment. We selected a nearby jazz venue. We made our way to the basement entrance in an old building and found out that we weren’t the only ones that wanted to hear jazz. A line threaded its way along the sidewalk and down the stairs. Since the line seemed to be moving, we decided to wait it out.
I am not a fan of basement venues, claustrophobia often sets in. But I took a deep breath and entered the low-ceiling structure. My sister-in-law and I got good seats close to the band. I am not a real fan of jazz, but I really enjoyed the set we listened to. The people next to us were really into it which made it more enjoyable.
Live Jazz at the Elephant Room, Austin, Texas, photo Denise Ames
After an hour or so we all decided to leave and plan our next adventure. We walked around the downtown area of Austin enjoying the nightlife and then decided to head back to our Airbnb for a game of Yahtzee. Our games are always interspersed with stories, jokes, and laughter. This one was no different. I headed to bed at a somewhat reasonable hour, wanting to catch up on my sleep that was punctuated the night before.
A Tour of Austin: The Magic Continues in the Texas Capitol
Our plans for the next morning included a brunch. But the restaurant was packed and we decided to check out another one. It was a taco-style low key affair but we made it fun since we managed to make some yummy mimosas from the champagne and orange juice we snuck in.
We had tickets for a guided bus tour of Austin so we made our way to the meeting spot. Our tour guide was a gutsy woman who did comedy routines on the side. She was a hoot and we enjoyed chatting with our personable guide. She asked what we all wanted to hear about on our tour and I was thrilled that my daughter and daughter-in-law mentioned history as their top pick. Since I am a historian, I was happy to see them find interest in my vocation.
We enjoyed a tour of the capitol building, a truly amazing structure that befits the status of this imposing state. Of course, we all recognized the former governor of Texas, George W. Bush, his portrait hung in the rotunda, but I had forgotten about the only woman governor of Texas before Anne Richards: “Ma” Miriam Ferguson.
Mimosas for brunch, Texas style, photo Denise Ames
Miriam Amanda “Ma” Ferguson (1875-1961), a Democrat, was the first female governor of Texas who served two non-consecutive terms: from 1925 to 1927, and from 1933 to 1935. Her husband, “Pa” Ferguson was the preceding populist governor before Ma, but was impeached and barred from political office.
Inside the Capitol Building, State of Texas, Austin, Texas, photo Denise Ames
We all enjoyed the rest of the tour as our guide (and driver) nimbly snaked through tourist spots in Austin. As I expected, we ended up at the Greeting from Austin sign across the street from our Airbnb. We stopped for pictures and our guide treated us to ice cream at a nearby store. How refreshing.
I reflected on our tour. As a New Mexican, there is an animosity directed towards Texans that has escalated over the years. Now that division seems more of a political/philosophy divide, with Texas a red state and New Mexico trending blue. However, after visiting Texas I have a new appreciation for their friendliness, efficiency, entrepreneurship and optimism. I believe that New Mexico can learn something from them, especially the way they have helped keep Austin an eclectic city with its unique character.
We needed some refreshments after the intense capitol tour. We were ready to visit and relax at one of the roof top lounges mentioned by our tour guide. We picked the closest one, the Hilton, and took an elevator to the lovely garden-style roof top lounge. Fans, a cool breeze, and lush vegetation added to the delightful ambiance. I ordered a tropical concoction that immediately put me into a tranquil swoon. The rooftop lounge afforded us of up-close views of the widespread construction engulfing the Austin downtown.
Relaxing at the Hilton Garden Rooftop, Austin, Texas, photo Denise Ames
The White Horse: Another Country Western Honky Tonk
We had energy for one more visit to a Country and Western Honky Tonk. We decided on the White Horse, which was in another trendy area of Austin (I wondered what areas were not trendy in Austin). It was known for its slick dance floor, boogie woogie bands, and whiskey on tap. Whiskey on tap did not sound too good to me after my tropical concoction finally settled in. We hailed another Uber and off to the White Horse we went.
The White Horse was a dive. It was shabby to say the least on the outside, and even shabbier on the inside. It was late Sunday afternoon and the crowd was a bit sparse but dancers were twirling and whirling around the dance floor. Much more professional than at San Jacs. We lounged around, struck up random conversations, and my daughter-in-law showed us her pool skills, unremarkable I might add. Our dinner that night was tacos from the food truck parked nearby. It was a low-key evening, which matched my energy level.
We finally tired of the place and decided to head back to the Airbnb, and play some more Yahtzee and chat. We had some wine to finish off, and packing to do. Still I managed to stay up until 2:00 a.m., again.
Austin, Texas, photo Denise Ames
Nature in Austin, Texas: The Botanical Garden in Zilker Park
Our Girl’s Weekend Austin trip was coming to an end. It was our last day and we were all departing that afternoon at different times. But we had one more meal that we would share together: breakfast. Our group packed up and then walked to another trendy Austin restaurant a few blocks from our Airbnb. Austin keeps surprising me with its eclectic restaurants, stylish trends, and friendly people.
It was a fairly cool morning so we grabbed the outdoor table for six, with a tent awning and shady trees shielding us from the soon-to-be brutal sun. I ordered an egg dish with a side salad and ice tea. Coffee of every kind gives me the jitters but tea is gentler on my system. Since I love ice tea, I don’t miss coffee. We reminisced about our long Girl’s Weekend; we had a wonderful time once again. We decided on New Orleans for the next excursion. That should be a treat!
Zilker Botanical Garden, Austin Texas, photo Denise Ames
My daughter and I were leaving at the same time, around 6, so we had the afternoon to ourselves. We arranged to leave our bags at the house while we set our sights on the nearby Botanical Garden in Zilker Park for our excursion. We said our good-byes to the Chicago clan and my daughter-in-law from Phoenix as they hopped into an Uber to the airport. I was sad to see everyone leave, but I was thrilled to have some time with my daughter.
The Zilker Botanical Garden includes 31 acres of land with plants that thrive in arid southern conditions. It is nestled within Zilker Metropolitan Park in the heart of downtown Austin. The brochure mentioned themed gardens including the Taniguchi Japanese Garden, Hartman Prehistoric Garden, and Rose Garden that are all interconnected with pathways. With heritage live oaks, streams, and Koi-filled ponds, the Garden offered a peaceful respite in the middle of a busy city.
The Botanical Garden was a short Uber ride from our Airbnb. However, the midday sun was hot and piercing. Perhaps the proximity to the Colorado River made the humidity increase, and soon I was drenched. Nevertheless, it was fun to stroll through the garden and catch as much of the shade offered by the Live Oak trees as possible. I especially liked the Koi-filled ponds and the waterfalls cascading over the porous limestone rock.
The heat shortened our excursion, and we were both ready for a relaxing lunch and an ice tea. We took an Uber back to our Airbnb neighborhood and we selected a trailer-style restaurant for a light lunch. Finally, it was time to head to the airport. We fetched our bags and ordered another Uber. I said good-bye to my daughter at her gate and then made my way to my gate for a short flight to Dallas and then finally on to Albuquerque.
Zilker Botanical Garden, Austin, Texas, photo Denise Ames
Good-by Austin: Reflections on the City
As my plane took off I looked out the window at the rolling hills to the east of Austin. I admired Austin for incorporating so much of nature into their burgeoning city, from the trails along the river, to Zilker Park, and also the lovely Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center that I visited upon my arrival. To me, making nature part of the city landscape has untold benefits both physically and psychologically for everyone.
As my plane sped towards Albuquerque, I had time to think about my trip to Austin. Although it was only a four-day trip, I still managed to pack it with fun and interesting things to do and see. Upon reflection, I give credit to the city government and civic organizations of Austin for helping to create a city that has so many interesting and unique features. From the cowboy boots and hats to slick dance floors, to bike trails along the river, Austin takes what it has and enhances it.
In fact, I was answering one of the questions that I had posed at the beginning of my trip and the beginning of this article: Is Austin authentic? I could honestly say that Austin still seemed authentic. Austinians still clamored for jazz in a dark, dungy basement or country music in a rundown dive with flimsy doors on their women’s bathroom stalls. There were islands of funky amidst the wealth and gentrification that had taken over the city, perhaps to give its citizens a grounding to hold on to amidst the whirlwind of change. There was also the friendliness. It was so widespread and spontaneous that it had to be authentic. I don’t think the mayor could have commanded everyone to be friendly, put a smile on your face, and be helpful to strangers. I would put my vote into the Austin is authentic category, I hope it doesn’t change but only time will determine that.
Austin city Skyline, Austin, Texas, photo Denise Ames
I am a bit more nebulous about how the phenomenal growth is affecting the average person in Austin, my second question I posed to myself. From what I have observed, the people I encountered in Austin seemed genuinely happy, polite, and helpful. But I wondered, for example, how the upper middle class, gentrified neighborhoods close to downtown would respond to their privileged position, particularly since they were displacing poorer Hispanic neighborhoods that still dwelled on their fringes. Would the cheap taco drive-ins soon be displaced by gourmet foods for only the wealthy, with price tags to match? Some people I encountered seemed to be concerned about the rapid growth, such as the Uber driver who nimbly explained the consequences of rapid growth and change. Once again, time will determine this question as well.
Austin is in a blue dot in the midst of a conservative state, but the people of Austin have been able to add onto their conservative state heritage to embrace a changing culture without losing their sense of history and place. I admire them for being both liberal and conservative at the same time. Now I see why they have both Republican and Democrat tacos. Seeing both sides is not a small achievement during such a polarizing time.